Both work fine to provide hydraulic pressure to your brakes. Although those rear drums were nothing compared to my front discs, the dual master cylinder setup enabled me to limp down the mountain in one piece.Īs for the DOT 3 vs DOT 5 issue. But I still had fluid and pressure in the rear reservoir of the master cylinder and my rear brakes still worked. The tread on the line fitting was shot and it could not be reattached. Under the constant heavy braking, the right front brake line popped out of an almost-stripped thread on the line fitting at the caliper and I immediately lost all fluid in the front reservoir of the master cylinder. In fact, I had a personal experience with this in 1977 while driving my '68 Mustang fastback over a very steep and twisty mountain road in California. If you lose pressure in the front brake circuit (the one most likely to go since it does the most work) and lose the fluid in the front reservoir, then your rear brakes would still work because you'd still have fluid and pressure in the rear reservoir.
Thanks!ĭarn, I hate to be in disagreement with edpol again, but I always thought the whole point of a dual master cylinder (by that I mean one with a dual fluid reservoir) was so that one reservoir fed the front brakes and the other fed the rear. I'll also send you a private e-mail so you can send them to me direct if you'd rather. So maybe the best thing to do would be post the pictures here for all to see? what year and model car did the dual master & booster you got on eBay come from? Probably others could use the info and pictures as well- if not now, then later when they come across this thread. Steve, I'm going to have to do this on my '63 as well. I Was very satisfied and if you would like some pics, just shoot me your e-mail address. Including shipping and the parts I got from my local parts store totaled was less than $300.00. It took about an hour to do and looks great. It's all assembled with the linkages and mounting hardware. Which is needed with the original "Brass T Fitting" that is on your master cylinder So the brake light switch can be retained. The only thing extra I had to buy was a pair of adapters to mate my brake lines to the new master And a 12" steel brake line.
Steveīubbastbird wrote: I opted for a complete dual master & booster swap from E-bay.
I opted for a complete dual master & booster swap from E-bay. Since the original brake boosters are so expensive, when you add in that you'll have to return your core w/shipping it's well over $200.00 bucks just for the booster. Unless you are going for complete originality the single master was all that was avalailable. The heavy duty parking brake caliper will allow you to use your stock parking brake cables to actuate your parking brake.There is alot of info on this here if you look under the recent post for 61-63 thunderbirds and 61-63 modified thunderbirds. All components used in these kits are new high quality, precision machined products with a zinc plated finish to reduce corrosion and extend the life of your brake system. In this kit you receive everything you need to mount single piston disc brakes to your Ford 8" & 9" Small Bearing Rear Axle. Add the safety, reliability and performance of rear disc brakes to your vehicle with our drum to disc brake conversion.